Best time: Saturday to Thursday 09:00–23:00; many shops closed Friday morning
Cost: Budget–Mid
Tip: El Fishawy coffee house has been open more or less continuously for two centuries and is the place to stop mid-bargain.
Watch outPapyrus is the standard scam: banana-leaf sheets sold as papyrus at papyrus prices. Real papyrus is fibrous, translucent when held to light, and does not crack when folded. 'Government papyrus institutes' with free entry are private shops.
Watch outShops present themselves as suppliers to French perfume houses and press very hard for a sale over tea. The oils are usually synthetic dilutions in a cheap carrier. Buy a small bottle if you like the scent, and disregard the story.