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Mumbai, India
5 customs and traditions in Mumbai — what they are, and how to take part without causing offence.
Five thousand carriers move 200,000 home-cooked lunches across the city daily by train and bicycle, with an error rate famous for being near zero.
Ten days in late summer when clay Ganesh idols are installed across the city and then carried to the sea to dissolve.
The surviving art deco cinemas show films the way they were meant to be received — with an audience that talks back.
Persian-run cafés with bentwood chairs and marble tables, once ubiquitous and now a shrinking handful.
Four months when the city reorganises itself around water — worth experiencing deliberately rather than avoiding.