The great labyrinth north of Jemaa el-Fna, organised by trade — Souk Semmarine for textiles, Souk Haddadine for ironwork, Souk Cherratine for leather, Souk Zrabi for carpets.
Best time: Saturday to Thursday 09:00–20:00; quieter Friday afternoon
Cost: Budget–Mid
Tip: Opening prices run three to five times the settling price. Bargain slowly and with good humour; walking away usually produces the real number.
Watch outUnofficial guides insist your route is closed or the tanneries are only open today, then lead you to shops paying commission. Official guides carry a badge. The 'free' mint-tea carpet session is a long, high-pressure sale.
Watch outHenna artists apply 'black henna' containing PPD dye, which causes chemical burns and lasting scars. Real henna is brown-orange and takes hours to darken. Photographs with performers are charged, aggressively — agree a price first or do not raise the camera.
Best time: Daily 08:00–17:00; mornings for the work
Cost: Mid-range
Watch outThe mint sprig handed to you at the tannery entrance is followed by a demanded 'tour' fee. Agree what you are paying before you enter, or view the tanneries from a shop terrace instead.
