Traditions and customs in Marrakech

1. Hammam

A neighbourhood steam bath with black soap, a hard glove scrub and rhassoul clay. Public hammams cost a fraction of the hotel versions.

• Cost: MAD 20–50 public, MAD 300+ at a riad

2. Mint tea pouring

Green tea with spearmint and a great deal of sugar, poured from height to aerate it. Refusing the third glass is mildly impolite.

3. Gnawa music

Descendants of enslaved West Africans playing the guembri and metal qraqeb in trance ceremonies, now also a festival music.

4. Argan oil cooperatives

Women's cooperatives in the Souss press argan for cosmetic and culinary oil by hand.

• Tip: Genuine cooperatives show the whole process and post fixed prices. Roadside 'cooperatives' on tour routes usually are not.

5. Riad courtyard living

The traditional house turns inward around a fountain courtyard — blank outside walls, elaborate interiors.